Two-step bound seams

Recently, we talked about bound seams. Bound seams are a way to finish the inside of a sewn object so that it looks nice. They are especially nice on unlined jackets. If you want to finish the seams on a sheer garment, try a French seam.A few weeks ago, I demonstrated a one-step bound seam. It’s basically a quick and easy way to accomplish what looks very much the same as this two-step bound seam. The difference is in the number of times you have to stitch the seam. In the one-step, we simply sandwiched the seam allowance inside the…

Bound seam

One-step bound seams

Bound seams are a beautiful way to finish the inside of an unlined garment. They differ a little bit from Hong Kong seams in that the backside of the bias binding is folded on a bound seam and left raw on a Hong Kong seam (to reduce bulk). A bound seam may use purchased bias tape while you might prefer to make your own bias tape for a Hong Kong seam since you will not have that extra fold.In this case, I did a one-step bound seam. I call it the “easy” method, though it’s not uncommon and is in…

Flat felled seam

A flat felled seam is a double stitched seam that is heavy duty. You’ve probably seen them on jeans for seams that need extra strength.While similar in some ways to the French seam, I like that this seam doesn’t require any calculations for the seam allowance. You just start with whatever your seam allowance is supposed to be and go from there.

How to do a French seam

French seams are a way to have a garment that’s lovely inside and out. The basic idea is to encase the raw edge of the seam allowance. It’s not hard, and it adds a really nice touch. It’s especially nice on a sheer fabric where you can see the seam from the outside. I initially used a piece of silk for this demo, but after viewing the photos, I realized it was a bit hard to see what I’m talking about. So I redid the tutorial with a piece of sheer fabric I dug out of my stash. I have…

Sewing a curved edge

Ever have two pattern pieces that are supposed to be sewn together but are actually curved in opposite directions? You wonder how they are possibly supposed to fit together. Sometimes you’ll see this in shaped seams, like a princess seam on a woman’s top that must make room for the bust. Sometimes, in the case of this tutorial, it’s a flat seam (meaning, not convex) that is rounded for visual effect. It’s really not hard to do, and I’ll show you how.