Stabilizing seams in knits

Here’s a simple little post about working with knits. Knits are stretchy. In many ways, that’s a good thing for certain uses. And many sewing machines have stretch stitch functions that provide a little more give in the seams. But where do you NOT want give? Places like shoulder seams or V-necks are a couple of examples. Have you ever hung a knit garment only to find the shoulder stretching out when you go to wear it? When sewing, stabilize these seams for a quick, easy solution to stretching.

Supplies

(Click fabrics for direct links for purchase at Warehouse Fabrics Inc.)

Diamond Fuchsia

1/4″ or 1/2″ twill tape

The process

These are my pretend shirt pattern pieces. The top edge is the shoulder seam.
Take a strip of twill tape (see All About Twill Tape for more information on twill tape). Cut the tape a little longer than your seam. You can trim it later. Place it along the seam allowance on the back pattern piece. You can use 1/4″ twill tape (seen in package) or 1/2″ (seen on my example).
Sew your seam as you normally would, sewing right through the twill tape and the two layers of fabric.
Of course I picked a padded hanger for this example, which would greatly help in preventing shoulder seam problems on delicate knits. But say you’re using an average hanger, or, GASP, a wire hanger, which as Mommy Dearest knows is good only for beating young children — you might need some extra support. (We do not condone the abuse of children at Warehouse Fabrics Inc., with or without a hanger.)
As you can see, when hanging this “garment” up, the twill tape is underneath that seam providing extra support. Now just finish the garment as instructed.Other options besides twill tape include ribbon or clear elastic strips.